The pedalboard is 30 notes, concave and radiating, built per AGO specifications.
I slotted the end of the key bodies, lined the insides with felt and then filled in the ends to leave
a cavity for the guide pin:
All the key bodies are made of poplar. The naturals are topped with maple and the sharps are made
Here's the inner frame and border pieces:
The rear of the keys sit over a pin on a pad of felt:
The above photos shows my first effort at the hinge for the pedal keys. With this system, the keys
had too much side to side rotational slop. The felted slot at the front of the keys had to be fairly
loose to allow easy movement of the key and therefore didn't provide enough rotational constraint.
I decided to cut off the back of each key and use a small brass plate as the hinge. This was a
huge improvement. The keys have a much more solid feel and the whole pedalboard is quieter. Here's the
The front of the keys fit over .25" dowel pins. The toe board is mounted to the wood dowels that are
in the gaps between E-F and B-C:
I made the front and back curved pieces by laminating four .25" thick pieces of wood over a form.
The photo is not of the actual glueing process. I used a lot more clamps for that. I had never done
something like this but the end result was very clean and void-free.
The fronts of the keys have small wood dowels with flats to connect them to the pedal action:
I thought it would help keep the pedal board quiet if the area where the keys slam up and down was
heavy so I installed 1/2" diameter slugs all across the front board:
Here are the springs under the keys:
The pedal board is designed to sit on eight soft rubber pads:
Here's the back curved piece turned over. The strip of felt holds down the rear of the key bodies.
Here's the front curved piece turned over:
Here are some views down the front and rear:
Here's the completed pedalboard: